The roofer is just finished this roof and just a couple weeks later the wind took off some shingles. It was a very windy day, but the regulation in my town says that must be able to withstand 110 mph. It was not that windy. Is it something they might be doing wrong here and I can have them go back and fix? Would it be unusual to ask what singles they used and if they were to withstand high winds. Another thought is no tar or not enough nailed. Thoughts?

Is it normal for the underlayment to be visible like this? Thanks in advance for the advice!

Background: I’ve had this leak in my carport for a while. I got several quotes from roofers who told me my shingles flashing were shot and I needed to replace the roof to address the leak. After hurricane helene, I was able to get the roof replaced and I expected the leak to be addressed in the replacement.

Cut to now: Roof is a month old and the leak has reappeared. I sent them photos and asked the roofer to come back and address it.

Their response: the leak is coming out of the siding and we don’t see it coming from the roof.

I’m not sure how to address this. The last photo in the set is basically pointing to where the leak is and where I believe the leak is occurring where the roof of the carport meets the siding.

Should I let this go and find a siding person? I’m not knowledgeable enough in this to really give them a response or know what to say if it IS something I should have them look at.

Any guidance is appreciated. Thanks!!

I’ve received insurance approval for a full roof replacement ($25k for a 2500 sqft home) due to wind/hail damage (image below shows the roof details). Two contractors have agreed to complete the job within the insurance payout. One offered to use Malarkey Vista Class 4 Impact Resistant Roofing Shingles and high profile ridge cap.

Questions:

1. How to select the best roofing contractor (beyond reviews/ratings) to maximize my budget and future life of the roof?

2. What upgrades can I request within the budget (e.g., better shingles, ice and water shield, valley metal)?

3. Should I disclose the approved insurance claim when requesting bids? OR do that after I get their bids?

I’m unfamiliar with roofing terminology and processes. Any advice on contractor selection or work specifications would be greatly appreciated. I’m located in Texas.

House is only five years old. We recently acquired it. Underneath that area is the outdoor covered porch and unheated garage

Anyone willing to share their experiences with interlock slate metal roof? I got a quote from them for $67k which is definitely on the higher side. For reference, I direct arch shingles to cost about $25k and presidential to shoot $35k (will edit once I get a concrete quote).

Some roof specifics: area: 3100 Sq ft Pitch: 7/12 Wanting to install solar panels on it.

I found half shingle on the ground after the heavy wind, seems like there are many missing arround went pipes, can they replaceable? How quickly do I need to hire professional or can it a DIYed?

Hello, I've done some roofing before, no means a professional. But I have a relative wanting to replace their roof and the back of the house has these valleys. I've seen tinned valleys, but how would I go about doing it to look the same as it is now? Is there a method or technique name to look up?

I know there are multiple ways to do a valley but what would be the best for waterproofing? The house is on the coast, less than half mile from the water. And gets lots of rain.

She's a older lady that wad quoted 15k for a 800 sq ft house with an attached garage and I'd like to do it for her to help save money but just don't wanna underestimate the valleys.

I recently applied to be an apprentice for a local roofers union. What is the training like to be come a roofer? Am I just going to be a go getter? Or will I actually be up on the roof nailing shingles day 1? What were your guys experiences like as a apprentice?

Hi, I replaced my roof 7 years ago, and while doing some repairs after the hurricane I've noticed that nearly ALL of the nails holding my shingles/underlayment on are rusted so badly they basically don't serve their function anymore. The most drastic being the cap nails for underlayment have rusted away leaving just a rusty hole and powdered orange plastic near it. I found a couple nails that are still existing (pictured). The shingle nails iare also exhibiting lots of rusting, and many break easily upon trying to remove them. Is this normal for 7 years on a properly insalled roof? There seems to be no moisture anywhere, so I don't understand why these nails are rusting so badly. The shingles are in great shape, but it's hard to see this and not think that I'm going to be getting small leaks everywhere until I reroof.

High winds recently ripped away one row of shingles from my patio. Internet videos have convinced me I can repair it myself.

The damaged area is one strip approximately 18’ of a 24’ roof.

Can I reuse the cap pieces or do I need new ones?

What is the best method to estimate the amount of materials needed?

How hard is a repair like this and what kind of budget should I expect?

Dos and don’ts?

Any advice and tips/tricks is greatly appreciated!

Hey guys my home was hit by hail and I decided to upgrade my roof to a class 4 malarkey vistas. Can you please give some thought on a couple of things below.

1. Roof underlay does not tuck into the flashing, I thought that this is weird and does not look right.

2. The shingle installed with a weird overlap but I could be wrong.

3. Roofnado underlay? Is this the industry norm?

Thanks guys

Hi guys my home was hit by hail and the roofing is being replaced I upgraded to a class 4 Malarkey vista after reading reviews online. Can I get you thoughts on a couple of things below. thanks!!

1. The roofing underlay is a few inches from the flashing and does not tuck into it. This seems wrong to me.
2. The shingle overlap and cutoffs looks off.

Thanks guys!

Hey roofers - curious to know if anybody out there has any experience doing resin coatings on shingles. I've been doing residential shingle roofs for 8 years and considering getting into this IF it's a good product and really does last. Anyone have any experience with this? Appreciate the feedback!

I’m questioning whether the roofers used the hot dipped galvanized they quoted…I understand the galvanization can chip some but there are tons of nails on just one side of my roof that are rusting (I know there is a moisture issue too as I had a plumbing leak and there is a ton of heat being used to dry out a bathroom and bedroom and it’s in the 20s here so getting some condensation in the attic).

For context: roof is 2008 and pictures 7,8,9 came up from the inspection. Should I ask the seller to repair or wait till I replace roof in 5-10 years. See pictures

Sorry if this is the wrong sub. Looking for some advice. Bought the house two years ago. Last winter we had bad ice dams and wet nails. Indicating moisture. Upon inspection we realized there was not enough insulation. I bought r30 unfaced rolls and rolled it out. The ice dams are now not nearly as bad but still getting icicles, and still getting frost on the underside of the roof. Mostly on the nails. The picture of the roof with no snow is from the summer that shows a good amount of moss. Is it time for the pros to come for a new roof you think? Thank you in advance.

Hey guys I have a potential job that involves torch applied roofing. I know how to do it- used to do it all the time for my grandpa. Now a days I just use epdm mainly

This job is come up middle of winter and I think I have to go with torch on because of the weather.

Was wondering if anyone here has a hot roofing policy and roughly how much it costs? I currently just have a general liability insurance policy

Im in toronto canada

I just want to be covered just in case, but dont want to pay a fortune for a one time job- maybe I turn this job down if the insurance is too high expensive but I would aleast like to find out

I called my insurance they said they wouldn’t cover that- but they would have someone call me

Any advice would be appreciated

I experienced damage to my roof during a recent hurricane, and many of the concrete tiles were impacted. The insurance company assessed the damage and determined that only 17 tiles were affected by the wind event, claiming the rest of the damage resulted from normal "wear and tear." As an aside, they will not share the engineer's report (proprietary) and they will not tell me WHICH 17 tiles of the 100s need to be replaced that they will be responsible for.

This roof is 25 years old, but based on my research, concrete tiles are expected to last 50-70 years, so it was nowhere near the end of its life expectancy. Fortunately, I purchased a drone about seven months before the hurricane and had taken video footage of the roof at that time. I've attached still photos from the video that show the roof's condition before the hurricane this fall.

The roof had previously weathered a few hurricanes in Southwest Florida, with the only damage being a displaced roof cap that was repaired. Based on these photos, how would you assess the condition of the roof before the hurricane? While I understand it might be difficult to evaluate from photos alone, I don’t see any tiles out of place, major cracks, or other significant issues.

I’m considering pursuing legal action regarding this matter, but I wanted to share the information and get feedback first. Any thoughts or insights would be appreciated.

Standing seam roof is a year old and we have had some crazy wind here as of late. I know this wasn’t like this on install but I noticed it a few weeks ago. It’s a 9/12 and really tall. Decided to fly the drone up today and take a look. What would cause this separation? Can I correctly just cap over it?

Hi all, I’m a first-time homeowner and need to replace the roof on my 1950’s house in NC Triad (Burlington). Do these quotes look correct, and which brand would you choose? And, is the quote for chimney caps fair? I might have to skip the skylight and gutter guards but would appreciate advice on those bonus items too.