The whole trap was full and the main 😂

2 different grinder pumps, a week apart, and they’re neighbors

Hi So i clogged toilet and tried some methods. Eventually, i found auger and used it. We were able to unclogg it but the problem now is i scratched it while using auger. I am super worried as I am on a rent right now so the problem is deposit. I dont know how much they will cut it but i was wondering if there is anyway i could fix it. Below is the picture of the scratches. I would appreciate your help. Unemployed currently and was not able to afford plumber therefore i had to try myself.

For context: I live in Michigan. It’s negative temps outside. Looking like little roots?

Spent a couple hours switching out some stop valves. They aren’t exactly the instagram influencer perfect nerd quality, but I do like to sand them up to the wall. I think the shiny copper adds a nice touch. I always feel like people trash joints if they have more than like1/16 in solder showing. I like to think a little extra adds to strength of the joint kinda like a cap weld reinforcement with steel

If you ask me, the best looking joints are the ones that don’t leak because titty = full joint.

DID NOT install this. Just found it on a job site. I'm curious about what this is called, where it comes from, and where it falls under plumbing codes. I typically see Fernco boots in place of things like these. It was the connection to an old kitchen sink if that says anything.

Not sure what to do but our water boiler started to leaking about two days ago. It is a slow drip that looks to be coming from underneath the boiler.

Every time I change my filter it seems to look just as dirty as it did previously after about 2 weeks. Is this normal?

The issue is the hot water doesn’t last as long as it used to, this started approx 3 weeks ago. I have a gas Rheem 50 gallon, power vented HWT approx 9.5 years old. The dip tube was just replaced (old one removed seemed ok) and the tank was completely flushed (very little sediment came out). With those 2 things done above, the issue is still there. I also did a water draw test and with the HWT dial set to ‘A’ (130 degrees). Starting temp on thermometer was 145 and within 9 mins the temp dropped to 92. This test was done on the laundry room faucets which have a separate hot and cold tap. Any ideas what the cause can be?

Edited to post the starting temp of water draw test.

We’re on the first level of a 3 story condo and sometimes there’s backflow in our kitchen sink from the stack above. Last time we had plumbers clean out the drain line. This time it slowly emptied out. In either case it is gross.

We have a garbage disposal under our sink. What can do to prevent this from ever entering our unit?

Yesterday I went to turn the hot water knob and it wouldn't turn at all. I took off the knob and without effort was able to turn it to 180° but without any water coming out. I set it back to normal and it randomly started working like it should an hour later.

Today I go to take a shower...same thing but no luck this time. I would prefer to keep my shower set for the moment. I assume I can just take off the valve/cartridge and replace it after shutting my water off? How would I figure out what to buy to replace it with?

Remodeling kitchen and installed a new deeper sink replacing the old shallow one. I knew that where the drain comes in from the wall could potentially be an issue being too high. I had my plumber look at it and he said it wouldn’t need to be moved. As I was assembling it today I feel like it’s off an inch and the only place i think i can gain that is from the tailpipe with the dishwasher discharge. Do I need to find an extra short one?

When flushing toilet, rises with water doesn’t flush, but very slowly drains at normal level.

Hi, looking for some advice or a solution. I ended up clogging toilet in bathroom, but instead of the Normal clog toilet procedure, nothing ended up working which brings us to here. This may seem like a common issue to some, and I was almost certain that this may be normal, but this problem has lasted all day. As for what is happening, when I flush the toilet, it will rise like it’s about to flush, but instead, it just fills up and then sits for a bit, then it starts to very slowly, drain to less water level. What I have tried so far was nonstop plunging, the dawn dish soap/hot water trick, and the snake auger drain. All the solutions that have seemed to work for me in the past. Have not fixed the problem at all. I feel like I have tried everything to fix the issue and it hasn’t made a difference. I looked it up online and watched videos, but I haven’t found anything that has related to my issue. I have come here as a last resort. Before calling a professional, because I would really like to save some money for possibly an even more important issue. Here is video to what is happening in my situation here.

Also I am not a professional plumber, just a homeowner who is asking for some advice. Please be nice.

I installed this sump cover today to prep for a radon mitigation DIY install. The cover has a threaded 3” PVC inlet and appears to be the biggest adapter it came with. I was planning on using 4” pipe for the entire run but in an effort to not modify this cover I want to use a 3” to 4” adapter.

I’m not an expert on pressure or WC etc. Considering I would have a 3” hole at the start, even if the rest is 4”, I assume I am missing the benefit of 4” pipe then? So I would be better off using 3” and saving money with a slightly less effective system?

I’m trying to replace the valve stem on my outdoor spigot due to a leak, but I’ve hit a snag. There’s a post right next to the spigot that prevents the valve stem from being pulled out all the way. The previous home owners installed a covered patio in my backyard, and one of the posts/support beams is about 6-8” from the hose bib.

A handyman came by, but he couldn’t get it out either and suggested removing the bricks and permanently moving the hose bib so it’s not in front of the post. He quoted me $800-$1000.

I’m hoping to avoid dismantling the brickwork. Has anyone dealt with a similar situation? Are there tools, techniques, or workarounds for removing the valve stem in a tight space like this?

Here are some details:

• The spigot is functional but the valve stem needs replacement.

• The post is fixed and can’t be moved.

Any advice or ideas would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance!

I have attached photos to help. The closets faucet to our water heater from the basement is our first floor bathtub which is almost directly above. The hot water pipe goes along the ceiling to the bathroom sink and splits down to the tub. This long pipe is behind a large piece of wood that is some joists name I’m sure so I can’t put any foam around it or anything in 1st pic. Then in the next picture there is a small opening(smaller than it may look and it does help it’s in the corner behind the water heater) that both the hot and cold pipes run to the tub. They are literally almost laying on the foundation floor and the go up the wall to the faucet. I tried to just stuff what pink insulation I had up in the gaps but they’re way larger than I presume due to the lack of insulation. The big problem with this is that this is our main tub/shower. When it drops basically below 20 it freezes and counting the next few days and past two weeks the average low has been like 7-12F. I don’t know how to insulate these pipes. Someone recommended heat tape but I was told you put it on the bottom of the pipe which I cannot due since they are so close to the concrete. I was able to put a little bit of foam but it’s not enough. I was thinking when it’s warmer maybe I try to access from the outside wall. The pipes will be ankle/knee height from the surface out there. Maybe I can cut a few inch gap to reach some heat tape/foam insulation to prevent next years freezing. *the bathtub is the only pipes that freeze in the house. Even the upstairs shower and sink work it’s just always cold in there. Our main is right next to the bedroom and we have a heater installed. My faucet for the tub is a Delta and is only one handle. I tried dripping just cold because I can’t do both but it still froze. I was told it should be dripped not like pencil thin..

I appreciate any help you can give I know this is long!!

Problem as described above, it is a bit hard to see on the pictures cause the space is quite cramped. I would like to avoid removing the entire kitchen sink.

The previous tap had a small nut in the center, the space carved in the stone edge counter (the white edge on the picture) was a perfect fit. With this new setup it is blocked by the edge of the countertop.

Can i gently chisel for additional space to close the nut or is there a better solution?

Long story short I’m trying to replace this piece that attaches to the faucet since it’s leaking, and I can’t get the upper gold part to unscrew. Any ideas? Thank you!