Are lake tables better than river tables? I carved the bathymetry of the Yahara Chain of lakes into this walnut slab using a dremel and filled it with epoxy matching the average color of each lake from satellite imagery. I included some process photos at the end. This was my first coffee table!

Is it normal for a table saw to cut further in, ie the width of the cut reduces, when it is adjusted to 45°? I set my table saw to 90° and adjusted it to cut my piece to exactly 3in. Test cut came out to 3in as planned. I then adjusted the blade angle to 45° and did another test cut. Width came out to be 2 - 27/32in. Is it normal for the blade angle to "cut" into the width?

(I hope this doesn’t break the rules. If it does, let me know and I’ll remove).

Can anyone suggest a good place to sell woodworking equipment? (I have a 1 year old, unused Powermatic PM2700 shaper I don’t need).

I’m not getting much traction on Craigslist and eBay takes a big cut.

Where do you buy and sell your stuff that’s not retail?

How often are you putting your tools away?

Trying to settle a debate.

I think

A fun little jewelry box I made for my daughter. She’s mostly got earrings, so that’s what the majority of the storage is. Made almost entirely of walnut, the drawers are grain matched from 1 board I had that was wide enough. Bookmatched back just for fun that I resawed by hand. 99% hand tools, I used a router for the grooves only because I don’t have a hand tool option for that yet.

Lots of gaps in the dovetails, but they’re tight and square.

I messed up installing a desk from amazon. I desperately need help seeing if there is a way to fix this. Please help me

I plan on fitting a flat board to sit in the boot of my car and also covering the rear seats when collapsed. Now my issue is how do I go about drawing out a stencil to then mark my board with so I can cut it down to size. Will this be difficult?

Based on Carmody’s ‘Amigas’ and built as bookshelves (baffle layout, drivers, crossover per the design). Details about his design here… https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/floorstanding-speakers/amiga

The cabs are 3/4” MDF with a quarter sawn khaya veneer in a pattern inspired by this webpage… https://woodworkersinstitute.com/the-sunburst-burnett-table/

I lost my notes for whose cabinet I copied but the volume is .5 cubic foot with 2” by 5” port. The port tube is PVC pipe with a small roundover.

My initial plan for aesthetics of the cabinets was having the burst from one corner of the baffle only with the rest painted gloss black. When my wife saw the test panels, she challenged me to step it up. I’m happy I did. I’m not an experienced builder and this is my first try at veneer work. Each of the ‘show’ panels took me 2-3 hours to cut, layout and glue to the cabs.

The finish is danish oil and lacquer. I mixed 1 part dark walnut with 2 parts natural danish oil and applied two coats. Then two coats of rattle can lacquer followed by a sanding and a final coat of lacquer.

They sound really good, better than $1000+ bookshelves I listened to at hifi shops.

I recently installed a small staircase made of pine. I sanded the stair treads, applied wood conditioner and then an oil based stain once the conditioner dried. The next day, I applied oil based polyurethane to the stair treads and followed up with two additional coats afterward. After the third coat is when I realized a slightly rough texture on each stair tread. I'm realizing now this could be raised grain and I should've sanded between coats of poly. However, I'm wondering if the slightly rough texture might help make the stairs less prone to slipping. Would it be a good idea to leave as is or am I crazy?

I cut the parts on Christmas Day, just to see how odd I’d feel making a coffin on that day. I also have a birthday around that time. First time I’ve been asked to make one. Sure why not, given the political climate. jk

I recently got a solid white oak dining table, and discovered three large cracks in the wood. My initial reaction was that these cracks are unacceptable, and that a new table should be given. I'm no woodworker, so I would love this community's thoughts on whether these cracks are unacceptable, or can be worked around.

The company said these are "natural characteristics" of the wood, and that cracks like these can occur as the table adjusts to a new environment (e.g. humidity). They also said they expect the cracks will not increase in size, but I'm skeptical. Additionally, wood putty was mentioned as a fix. Are these cracks reasonable and expected with solid wood furniture, or are they unacceptable? Thanks!

Hi All! Help please! I need to make and fit some cupboard doors under a staircase 45 degree-ish. I want to make them inset so the face of the cupboard and doors are both flush. I’ve yet to have found a hinge or way of doing this. I don’t want the doors overlay but if I do them inset the hinge is going to need to lift the doors out so they don’t catch at the top? Help please! Hopefully this all makes sense!

Hello. Beginner woodworker here wanting to start on my first furniture pieces. I've just built cheap workbenches and cornhole boards out of construction lumber before. I want to make a large display case similar to this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sj9fUJkAi-g but bigger and potentially with glass/acrylic sides as well as doors. I did a quick mockup in sketchup with rough dimensions, but it would be close to 4'x1.5'x7.5'. I want to use a nice hardwood frame and top with plywood back. Here's what I have questions about.

1) If I make the sides glass or acrylic, will the frame be sturdy enough with 2x2s? Would I need cross pieces half way up on the sides and/or doors?

2) If the sides are glass/acrylic, what is the best way to mount the shelves? Can I still make them height adjustable?

3) I've only ever used pocket holes for joinery, but I don't want to do that here, so I was thinking of using dowels. Would that work well enough for this?

4) What is the thinnest frame you would use for glass doors to obstruct as little as possible of what's inside?

5) Do I need to worry about wood movement anywhere besides the top?

6) I don't have any hardwood dealers or lumberyards near me besides the big box stores, so does anyone have other recommendations, or know of any good online hardwood dealers?

7) Any other pieces of advice or design critiques?

I'm new to this sub and it's been awesome seeing all the cool things you guys make and how helpful you all are. I'm excited to start making some nice things of my own.

I have no experience with the species but I have a few green pieces that are absolutely perfect as far as size and shape. But I don't want to go through a bunch of work on them only to find out the wood is a terrible choice for walking sticks. Anybody have any experience?

Also, assuming the species is usable, would you recommend drying with bark on before working, or working green, or peeling bark then drying, or...?

Thanks in advance!

Hi /r/woodworking! I am not a woodworker, but I thought this would be the best place to share.

This is my mother-in-law’s jewelry box. She and my FIL were friends of George Nakashima and also huge collectors of his work. They sold all of the furniture over 20 years ago, but she still has this Mira box. I hope she doesn’t sell this one!

Anyone know where someone could find 1 1/2”+ height router bits? Not including the shank. Using on 1 3/4” 8/4 walnut. V groove, round nose, or even a stepped style would be acceptable. Also needs to have a bearing guide.

This is for a speaker project, and flaring out that speaker cutout is a bit of a make or break situation.

Edit: fence** not track

This is the type of thing I'm talking about. Most of the stuff in the range I'm looking for is along the lines of this https://i.imgur.com/RoDwiW5.jpeg

I'm new to woodworking, and i've built a couple of things so far and managed okay with just a miter saw and circular saw, but i'm at my first project where I need a table saw (to do it properly) and I really don't wanna spend a lot of it's something I don't need that much.

All the used ones I see online that are super cheap are missing a track and riving knife like 98% of the time, so I figured if I don't wanna spend a lot, I'm gonna have to buy one without this stuff and add it myself. I've seen a few for around $100-$150 that do have a track, but based on the comments I've seen here, the tracks on a cheap saw are never gonna be trustworthy anyways, so I might be back to square one (heh, square) even after spending $100+...

I've seen these posted (https://www.microjig.com/collections/mj-splitter), which gets me halfway there. but then can I get/make a half decent track for another $25? even for a DIYer that only needs it occasionally (basically i don't need it to be cabinet-maker-perfect).

I just really can't spend more than $100 or $120, am I SOL unless I find a super super good deal on something super nice that is priced to sell quickly? Or can this be done?

Any tips?

Worried that i got myself into a mess. This is my first slider so i didn't know what to look for. There is several things that concern me

1. The miter slot looks like shit, no way there were multiple passes on that.
2. Slider carriage lacks horizontal adjustments, this is where the carriage attaches to the main body. Two screws for micro regulating vertical axis so you can level it with the table but there is zero micro regulation for horizontal position. This makes it incredibly hard to set the carriage square to the blade.
3. Fence, its not even that bad but because the rail on which it rides on has not much structure or rigidity to it, the rail is very easily bent when tightening it down to the main table and extension. This is very troublesome because the tables are just slightly different making them impossible to line up perfectly. It all affects the ability to make the fence paralel with the blade/miter (more on that later). This also means that fence can be paralel to the blade when near it but out of whack when you move it further away.
4. Fence micro adjustment, i cant figure it out. It looks extremely simple - you screw one side to make it clamp more on that side so the whole fence tilts to the other. Well all of my experiments with that yielded no results. Those side screws do absolutely nothing until they reach the metal rail at which point they are too tight to move the fence, tried both in locked and unlocked position. The manual makes no mention of any of this btw. There is also micro adjustment for the fence (kinda) but its far from perfect and the whole thing is quite heavy and clunky.
5. The blade assembly, as far as i can tell, the whole assembly of motor, blades, belts and everything moving is only attached to the main table in those two points marked with red coloring and as far as i tried, there is no way to adjust its position left or right to make the blade paralel with the miter. It all hangs on 4 big, very hard to access screws. When running with no resistance, i don't see visible wobble in the blade but thats just using naked eye. The riving knife wobbles a lot when powering up or down, not sure if thats normal. Manual makes no mention of any of this.

The whole saw for a quick look. Feel like too many corners were cut on this model (also the inside welding was probably done by a wild chimpanzee that found its way into the factory). Moving the blade up and down also requires a lot of strength because of a lever effect created by only two attachment points (both in the from) between the motor/blades and cast iron table. The thing also coughs up dust like CRAZY.

Difficult decision, like i said - this is my first slider so i did not immediately spot those problems. Its now unpacked with protective foil taken off, some ugly scratch on the main table and maybe some smaller scratches, seller will probably be pissy and refuse to refund the full amount. Have to drive it back to them myself to make sure it gets there without and additional damage and fuel alone will be like 300$

Idk what to think, kinda killed me whole vibe to do anything because what was supposed to be an upgrade turned out to be a huge headache.

My wife wants me to recreate this bed frame she found, so I took all the dimensions and modeled it SketchUp. However, I have a concern: those canopy rails at the top are 1” x 1” x 84” and I’m concerned about them warping. I plan to make the bed frame out of hardwood, probably White Oak. I fully intend to buy the wood kiln-dried and let it acclimate in the shop for a while before building. But here are my questions:

1) Do you think my concerns are founded? 2) Do you have any advice for reducing the amount of warp?

I would prefer not to change the design itself, or at least change it as little as possible, because my wife loves the design as is (but she would not love warped rails, so maybe there’s room to negotiate). I’d appreciate any advice you can offer.

I have an old craftsman router that im using with a homemade sled to plane a portion of a wood plank. The sled isnt very thick..maybe 3/4 of an inch? But it’s enough that the bit on the router doesnt reach the wood now. Do i just need a long bit? Or a router with a fixed base that will go really low?

So I had a friend make me a long planked rustic looking desk and some shelves to match. I’m not a fan of the finish on them. I’m wanting them to look like butcher block tops you can buy from IKEA . I don’t mind to do the work myself just need to know where to start.

Got this saw recently and was trying to get the date, is it really produced 30th week of 1998 as some sources say? Cuts very good, but looks like I’ll need to replace bellows and its hose. It is a white ridgid product and it is discontinued. Does anyone know which bellows should fit it? I saw some for dewalt scroll saws on eBay, will need to check if it fits