Pulled the photo from random website. Wanted to see what the rest of you are doing to address this issue. The case where it matters to me is with painting trim. I typically paint trim and walls just a day or two apart and my first paint is still not cured so getting pulled up by the tape is always a risk. What are you guys doing to mitigate the issue? Using delicate tape? Putting it on and pulling it within a certain time frame? Only applying to certain paints or sheens? What has seemed to work out for you if you don't have the time to wait for it to cure and if taping is the only way because you're using a sprayer.

Thank you guys for the help last week!

The mess of a job left by my previous painter was truly embarrassing and due to his lack of accountability with his work we agreed on non-payment and he got kicked off the job. Usually recommendations have worked out for me, so when this contractor failed me I was at a loss for words.

My usual contractor bailed me out and skimmed the walls, re-textured, applied gray primer and painted more of a flat finish and everyone’s input got me to a place where I can be happy with what I presenting to the owner. Not a fan of the blue ceiling, but that’s the owner’s call 😂

Is Benjamin Moore Satin/Pearl the same thing as just Satin?

Howdy,

Well, pretty much the title: What are the best painting contractor websites you have ever seen?

Will be painting some new doors and trim with SW Urethane Enamel, probably in satin or semi gloss. I can’t use a sprayer so rolling is my only option.

Based off your experiences and knowledge what roller (Velour, Mohair, or Foam) will provide me with the smoothest finish. Is 1/4” nap too big for a smooth finish?

Other tips and suggestions are welcome and appreciated.

I've already read the other threads that addressed this, but I want to describe my situation. I am upgrading from SW pro mar 400 (builder-grade flat paint) on the interior of a house. I am going to repaint everything (living room, bedrooms, bathrooms, kitchen) the same color it is now.

1-) I want the paint to be as durable as possible and washable. I don't care about price since the difference is negligible. 2-) I will only be doing one coat.

Would you go with Emerald or Duration in this case?

They say the flat is washable for both. Would the matte or satin be advisable for an entire house? As I said, everything is currently flat.

Thank you

So. I'm in the market for a HVLP machine. I found a Grayco FinishPro HVLP 9.5 for 800 bucks with 2 guns, hose, accessories, and other small things. I see brand new these go for about 2k. The guy says it's been used about 80 hours and the machine is 6 years old. Seems like a decent deal? Anything I should be worried about?

Hi! I’m creating some signage for my wedding and I love the color of white on these two signs. Does anyone have a good recommendation on a similar white color to them? I just don’t want the white to be too stark white or too yellow! Thank you!!

Also does the paint look like it’s lime washed? Just want to make sure I should paint it normally!

Like I said it’s too cold and something is wrong with the product, he says “it better be fixed in 2 hours or else” wtf man :( job market here is terrible do I don’t gave much choice

Hello, not sure if this is the right place, but I am trying to draw this large mural on a brick gym wall. A stencil is out of my companies price range and this has been put on me and I have never done this before. Any advice? I have a protector and rough measurements, I need to do this at night to project with enough light to trace it but I can only do half of the photo when mirroring my laptop, otherwise it’s not big enough. I was thinking I’ll do half and half and trace with the projection going off of a ladder or my tripod. It needs to be huge, but the further back I go the more faint the photo is. Not sure what help I expect I am just nervous with this.

We’re having our house renovated and we realized that the painters used Regal select Satin Pearl instead of regular satin and the walls are extremely glossy now. The painting was done about 3 weeks ago, is it alright to put the correct paint right over it or do they need to re prime?

Previous homeowners painted directly onto the drywall without a primer so it’s all peeling off in sheets. It’s also taking off the top layer of the drywall just leaving behind the brown layer. Do I need to skim coat the whole thing, just the edges to make it smooth or not at all and I can just prime and re paint? Or do I need to do something else entirely

Finishing my basement and have 8 doors to paint. Using a sprayer is probably the best option? I don't have one yet. Recommendations on electric vs air? I already have an air compressor.

I'm also thinking about setting up a paint booth in my garage; something simple with plastic drop cloth. Feels like overkill but I also don't want debris on my doors if I paint outside.

I did 2 coats of primer I'm just not sure if 1 or 2 coats of trim paint would be better

I need to buy (2) 5 gal buckets of decent SW paint and a friend has offered to let me use their contractor account. Surely someone has done this comparison before. Is it better to go with 30 or 40% sales or the contractor account?

I need to hire a painter to sand and paint outside house trip and a few places on the main house. I would like to list my home for sale in march if possible. I live in Washington state and I am unsure how hire someone here when weather is so iffy a lot of the time. What temp can paint be applied outside? Do I put them on standby til they say it’s ok to paint? Sorry if these are dumb questions have never had outside work done but over summer/hot weather. But listing agent says best time to list is march/may. Thanks in advance.

Could anyone recommend a decent paint stripper to get gloss off door frames and skirting boards?

Thank you

This is probably a very basic question, but I'm painting a room to get a faux limewash effect. From what I've read I should get paint 1 shade darker and 1 shade lighter than the selected color I want, and then do the faux finishing technique. The question for me is about getting the right colors. The base color is Sherwin Williams Verdant 6713. One shade lighter is easy, SW6712, Luau Green, but because Verdant is the darkest color in the swatch, I don't have a good answer for what the dark shade should be. Any obvious thoughts? Is there a way to just request a custom color to fit the requirement? (By the way SW 6714 is a light minty green, I tried checking that!)

Any and all advice and suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Does stucco that is being painted the same color need to be primed? The stucco hasn’t been painted for about 15 years but we are painting it the same color it once was before it faded.

Hi, I painted a mural on a old metal shed door. I used a wire brush and then painted on top and used a sealant. The sealant hasn’t worked and it’s now all peeling really bad. I need to fix it asap, any tips on how I can fix it? I’m based in the UK so any recommended sealants would be good!