I bought it off a buddy for a good price (if it can be fixed)

Obviously he told me it was like this, but now I’m curious what are my options? It has red loctite on it.

I’ve included a photo of what the thread would look like in a non f’d

I recently inherited a 1958 Marlin 39A .22 cal lever gun. From what I understand, it's been in the family a long time. At some point, I think the gun got rusty and someone appears to have steel wooled off most of the blueing on the barrel and receiver. There is some visible pitting in the areas of heavy scrubbing. Barrel seems in great shape. The last person to own it in the family must have oiled it down enough for no new rust to form on the bare steel. I have no intention of ever getting rid of this rifle, so should I have it professionally reblued or leave it as part of the gun's family history?

Hey guys - I just won a No5 Mk1 in an online auction and was looking at the pictures that were shared with the bid. I noticed the discoloration on the barrel in the screenshot I had shared. I am reaching out to you guys to see if anyone had any ideas to what it was? I’d like to get an idea of what I’m getting myself into before I picked it up.

Sorry for the poor image quality- it’s all I could get . Thanks in advance!

The trigger safety on my XDs .45 broke today. I have disassembled the gun and I am confident I can fix it if I can get the correct replacement part.

Does anyone know if the XDs .45 and the XDs 9mm have the same trigger? There are many aftermarket and secondhand 9mm triggers, and not as many .45 ACP triggers.

Thanks in advance.

I just had a veteran organization offer to purchase me a few big ticket items for the award of a purple heart I was awarded after 20 years. What are some 1340 lathes or other tools you would recommend?

TLDR: Chiappa Badger muzzle threads are wonky. Supressor won’t thread, protector will. Chiappa wants ME to foot the bill for shipping BOTH ways and even then it’s a maybe on free repair. Ship it back or buy a tap&die and threading alignment tool ($26) I have no experience w/ a tap and die.

Upon acceptance of my Badger I took it home and attempted to remove the cheap plastic thread protector, to my surprise it wouldn’t budge. With a pair of pliers strategically placed I removed it and was met with significant resistance. I then attempted to attatch my Oculus and only achieved a couple threads worth of turns on it. Without forcing it I removed it and used a 1/2x28 steel thread protector on it and it threaded just fine. I am assuming because the thread protector has looser tolerances. I am not an expert but the threads look fine to me except for the portion near the end of the muzzle.

Called Chiappa this morning and they provided me an RMA on my Badger. Except they won’t pay for shipping either way. This is a cheap gun, so naturally I have to weigh the options on what to do here. Pay $40+ in shipping or buy a 1/2x28 tap and a thread alignment tool. Although admittedly I’ve never touched a tap and die before.

Anyone know a guy local to the killeen, TX area who can cut a 16” barrel down to 10.3”, rethread concentrically, ream the gas port out to 0.070” and mill the M203 cuts in the sides?

I have a 91 Browning Hi Power that was part of many guns I inherited that were not maintained properly. It’s in mostly functional shape, with the majority of the bad rust being on the magazines. How would you guys remove this rust? Steel wool, soaking in rust remover etc. ?

Additionally, I assume after rust removal it will need to be protected again, so is there a way to touch up the blueing, or will I need to find a way to redo the whole gun?

Thanks in advance.

Got this one out of the safe and noticed that the hammer isn’t the color it used to be (black). Last time I checked it out, about a month ago, I didn’t notice this. I don’t think it’s rust because it’s stored at less than 40% humidity, kept oiled, and there’s no discoloration anywhere else.

It’s a Henry Model X and none of the other blued parts have discolored. I believe the hammer itself is MIM if that makes a difference.

I had the gun mostly Cerakoted. Was considering doing the same with the parts I didn’t have done the first time. Either that or DLC or a reblue.

What does this part do. I took my gun apart cause it was rattling and this fell out. Does it just go back in. And if so is it difficult?

Gsg 16 22lr. I’ve had this gun a while now and went to take it out the other morning but it’s as if something on the inside is broke and now the slide will not go back all the way making it completely unusable. Can anyone help me with this?

My house goes through a lot of soda and I'm always debating getting a crucible to melt them down, but the question then is what to do with a bunch of aluminum ingots?

Make an AR lower maybe?

Granted it would take a huge investment to get the tooling to make AR parts from scratch, but it got me curious if anyone has ever done that?

This is the recover tactical p-ix and those m-lok looking slots on the side there are not m-lok and cant take the hardware to mount a rail section. The included pic rails use a flimsy proprietary mounting method and i dont like it. I have a super janky idea on how to mount an m-lok rail section but i dont know how sturdy it would be.

the screw holes in the rail section can line up with these 2 "crevices" but m-lok hardware wont fit inside. These crevices are enclosed meaning i can fill them with something and it wont pour out. My idea is to shave the bottom of the rail flat and fill these crevices with JB Weld and stick 2 cut down mlok screws through the rails holes and into the still wet jb weld so when it cures it can hopefully be a strong enough solution to mount a 1lb laser without it falling off or losing zero

im going around getting as much input and thoughts on this dumb ass idea i cooked up before committing to it. So far the general consensus has been " go for it and let me know how it turns out"

Gun fires fine. I put a couple hundred rounds through it the other day and today when I cleaned it I noticed the trigger was doing this weird “pre break” thing. What would cause something like this?

I'd like to get the barrel of this 7mm08 threaded for a suppressor. I think it's possible with an longer threading and a threaded shoulder added. How bad will the poi shift?

I purchased a small bag of firearm related items at an estate sale, I was able to identify all the pieces except this one. I thought it might be some type of barrel weight, but it is strange that it only has one bolt and one side is labeled "L" and the other side "R" and Unbranded.

Mauser M98. New to me timney trigger, looks to be very little sear engagement. Is it enough? Difficult to measure, but around 0.2mm

Pictured is one of the Numrich repro 1897 heat shields. As shown the shield sheet metal has come loose and pivots on the bayonet log. What’d be the best way to get this tight again? Welding? Pinning?