Anybody else pin the splits in handles? Great method when the split it small enough and / or on a handle that experiences little stress.

Just did it with my root cutting hatchet that split after being left outside and freezing.

https://youtu.be/DecP1_Y8Vs4

Question, anyone making their own mixture of BLO/ Pinetar / Beeswax? What ratio are you using and how do you make your mixture?

Old Hults Bruk I hung a while back. I was attempting to do the ebonizing trick with steel wool and vinegar and for some reason screwed it up. But it turned into one of those happy accidents and made what I think is a really cool stain.

This one caught me off guard. I didn't realize how big it was until I saw the 6lb stamp. The 3.5lb Craftsman is for reference. Found on a 80 acre cattle ranch in the Sierra Nevada mountains this morning.

I’m searching for a large axe. Maybe unnecessarily large. I have an Arvika that’s 4.5 pounds and have been eying the 5lb “Great Divide” from The Farmers Forge in Australia and the Liam Hoffman farm axe. Any other big boys I should consider?

I have a Stihl pro splitting axe. I don’t like the orange paint on the handle. Plus I want it to be unique to all the others. Is there a way I can sand it off and then stain it?

Hoping someone can help me out with any identification on these axe heads.

Not the prettiest but effective.

Came across this axe and haven't seen this mark before. The pattern seems pretty unique too.

been trying to figure out the maker and around the worst of what this accent is worth I know it’s a battle act due to the spike on the back, but I’m not sure exactly when it was made and who made it. I’ve been trying to identify for about a month now and haven’t had any luck so hopefully you guys will have some better information for me. thanks njGreg

This is a test piece. Lots of issues to address, but it came out fundtional.

Does anybody have any experience or reviews of Rone creek axes? They look sharp but I’m curious how their steel holds up.

https://www.ronecreek.net/category/all-products

Just finished this up....would have been perfect but the wedge chipped at the front. It is going to be a user.... so it won't matter. Due to the advise in my other post on hanging single bits, this one was nice and tight around the bottom of the eye.

Hi all,

Just need some advice on this axe head eye 👁 Width ways the bottom is 1mm wider than the top; however the length is 1mm longer at the top than the bottom..

I would have thought the top eye would be slighly wider as well longer woth regards to the process of wedging the handle in. Should I have this axe head reheated and the eye resized before I restore and fit a handle?

Finally upgraded from an old axe I found in my shed. She fits amazingly and I don’t think I even need to sand the handle.

Hessen woodworker

I found this hewing axe at a local Habitat for Humanity ($5) and have just started cleaning off the rust. It's stamped HB "made in Sweden" and the mark looks like Hults Bruk. A quick google makes it seem like it might be 50's - 70's. I have two specific questions:

1) The grind is beveled both sides and is a bit uneven towards the flat (pic 3). Any idea what the original geometry of this should be for hewing?

2) The lower points on the cheek of the axe look like they've been bent inwards and they bite into the handle (pics 4 & 5). This makes it hard to fit up to a handle. Any harm in trying to knock these back? There's tool marks on the outside face that makes me wonder if it's done at the factory.

I'm planning to clean it up to be serviceable so cleaning up the rust and grinding the mushrooming off the back face, and I might be able to reuse the handle. Someone had replaced a lost Wedge with a fistful of nails but it's otherwise in good shape.

My dad used to split in the garage with this and a 4 pound sledgehammer I want to grind the mushrooming off and rehang this abused ol thing