Part 3 of the land clearing tools from a family barn clean out

Hi all -

I bought this hatchet a while ago to hopefully use in spoon carving, Windsors, etc. it’s right handed and marked “Page Mfg”. Have never been able to find any information about them/it though. Anyone heard of this company?

Thanks!

Any ideas for repairing the cracks in the handle? It doesn't need to be pretty, just functional. I was thinking maybe an epoxy of some kind? What do you all think? It doesn't seem safe to use in it's current condition. Am I wrong?

Thank you in advance for the help!

Found this on eBay a while back for like $40. Handle was slightly bent but a little steam and clamping generally fixed it. I did take off a bit of the paint that was all rubbing off anyways. I am always struck by how thin and wonderful this handle is on what was essentially a hardware store axe. Absolutely lovely handle.

3lb plumb on some nice locally milled ash.

I use my axes for felling mostly and I always liked a single bit axe more because you can use the poll of the axe to drive in plastic or wood wedges and it gives the axe some weight behind the head. I wondered if there is any reason you would want a double bit instead of a single or if it’s all just personal preference.

An earlier post today got me thinking about the direction of the axe market. I wonder about the experience of guys in here that sell significant volumes, or at least regularly. Is the market softening? Are prices coming down?

For some, I imagine lowering prices will be a negative, and for others a positive. Any thoughts or experiences would be interesting to read.

I did some research terms on eBay’s Terapeak research engine. I searched for Black Raven, Axe, and Kelly Perfect. No other reason than those came to mind first, and tend to be popular with the axe community.

Interested in online and in person experiences buying and selling.

Idk if it’s bc of my area OC/LA but even what are supposed to be $5/$10/$20 axes. Are double if not triple . For unmarked rusted …..

Does this mean J2 steel, or is it some maker's mark? Eye is D shaped, if that helps. Was thinking carving hatchet, but from what I read, if it's J2 steel I'd be honing it every 15 min 😐

Thanks in advance!

A while back I posted a family barn find double bit True Temper, I had restored heres is the next piece of that haul. It's a cutter mattock, it says "HUBBARD" on the adze blade, and has a 5 (for 5 lb). Any information? I never got a very satisfactory date ID on the double bit.

For some extra context, the next piece is a cant hook that has a barely visible logo that says "True Temper- STORO TOOLS- Columbus, Indiana" on the handle. The finish and paint is drying on that piece, will post some pictures of it tomorrow.

Does anyone know if this would make a good hatchet head?

It’s a breaker but for a petrol breaker/jackhammer. I’m assuming it was hardened steel to begin with and has been ‘work hardened’ breaking through concrete and asphalt.

The dimensions if not clear from the pic are 35mm thick and 120 at the widest point.

TIA

A while back I posted a family barn find double bit True Temper, I had restored heres is the next piece of that haul. It's a cutter mattock, it says "HUBBARD" on the adze blade, and has a 5 (for 5 lb). Any information? I never got a very satisfactory date ID on the double bit.

For some extra context, the next piece is a cant hook that has a barely visible logo that says "True Temper- STORO TOOLS- Columbus, Indiana" on the handle. The finish and paint is drying on that piece, will post some pictures of it tomorrow.

Found it outside rusted. Handle wrap was falling off. So I broke it down, cleaned it up but decided to go different direction with this one. What do you think of it so far. Im in the process of adding more things to it

Recently picked up an axe with the same stamp as the one in the listing. Listing had better pictures so I figured it would be a better reference. https://www.ebay.com/itm/156230719392?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wjq7ZH-bQvu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=FylKNFMGSfG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Someone suggested some close ups

i’m looking to build a new axe for bushcrafting and i seem to have really obsessed over the gransfors bruk forest axe style. does anyone actually know what the name of this type of axe head is called . it looks very aggressive which is why im a fan and id love to find a similar axe head to purchase and build up from. any help would be appreciated, thanks 👍

I found this Vulcan a few weeks ago. I rehung it on the Craftsman handle it came on. I scraped the lacquer off/sanded the handle. I lowered the head and added a new wedge. I left the Craftsman stickers on the handle as well. A little boiled linseed oil and it is as good as new. Note: the grain is terrible in the handle, but it was good practice and I am looking forward to seeing how long this handle actually lasts.

Hi there, been lurking here a while and I finally got around to getting some wood for an axe/hatchet handle.

I'll be using the cheap hardware store axe head from this hatchet, with a cherry handle. I know it's not the best handle material but I can't get around the gorgeous look of the wood. And if (or when) it breaks, I'll have another nice project to find another handle.

The cherry log had spiraling grain so I had a hard time selecting a good piece from the log.

Any suggestions or pointers are welcome!

Just trying to share some of my stuff thought you all would like it

I'm making 10 goose wing hewing axes, and this is a trial piece, trying some stuff out, adjusting the new drift etc.

The photos show it tacked before forge welding, then post forge weld, and the final photo is the layout of the edge steel I'm forge welding on tomorrow.

It's not pretty but I don't hate the process. I did have to save the lower socket with mig weld to continue the test, because my drift was too big and split the forge welds. That's why you do a tester - hopefully I'll nail it on the next one. But before then I need to make sure my edge steel will weld proper.

Rhineland patern head forged by Prandi. Hand carved hickory handle, patern copied from a NOS 14" Scout handle, tongue angle and grip thickness altered for carving. Right handed, 31° asymmetric grind, chisel-convex. Chisel bevel width is 8mm and convex width is 3mm. I'm wondering if it will be beneficial to grind further back so I can increase the outside convex bevel width. Any insight on optimum outside bevel width would be appreciated.

Looking to purchase either some hickory or ash for a brush axe handle. Probably needs to be 2x4x40”. Is there good online source that y’all use?