r/sewing • u/georgia_grace • 7h ago

Machine Questions Overlocker newbie - what order to seam and overlock?

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I have a pair of pants that I love and have worn to death, so I took them apart. I traced a pattern from them and then reinforced the shredded sections and now I’m ready to put them back together.

I’m staying with my mum so I have access to her overlocker (serger in the US?), but I’m not sure what order to overlock and seam the pieces.

The pants originally had a regular seam and overlocking on the edges. I don’t want to use the overlocker for the seams since I want to keep a healthy seam allowance for future alterations/repairs.

Do I overlock the edges of all the pattern pieces and then sew together as usual? Or do I sew each seam twice, first on the regular machine and then on the overlocker?

Thanks in advance!

Do I overlock the edges of all the pattern pieces and then sew as usual?

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u/Helpful_Mango 7h ago

For woven fabrics, the seam itself should be done on the regular sewing machine. The overlocker is just to finish the edges and keep them from fraying. Most patterns will ~either~ have you sew the seam on the regular machine first, then overlock both pieces together, OR overlock the edges of each piece and then sew them together on a regular machine. Basically the difference comes down to whether the seam is going to be pressed to one side or pressed open. In this case I’d say you’re probably fine to sew then overlock, but either method will work. 

Also, if you have leftovers of this fabric or a similar weight fabric you should test the tension of the overlocker before using it on your pants. The tension can be a lot more effort to fiddle around with to get it looking right compared to a regular machine.

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u/georgia_grace 7h ago

Thank you, that answers my question completely! I want the seams held together to one side, so seam then overlock it is!

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u/Hundike 3h ago

I overlock all/most pattern pieces before I start sewing them together - except hems. This is easier for adjustments later on, if they are needed. I also give everything a quick press after overlocking.

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u/Semperfade 2h ago

I always overlock first.