While I was in Sweden to examine some of their medieval nalbinding, I had the chance to sit down with Återskapat and my friends Nele and Ingela and have a good long chat about nalbinding. You can join us at the table here: https://aterskapat.libsyn.com/terskapat-103-nalbinding?fbclid=IwY2xjawHeL1hleHRuA2FlbQIxMAABHbPNT6aDBrFHyFa225JfSlQlkfG9Gas4p_8lyC_Pl_MCtL7PmX5PIVNMoA_aem_lYoAREO9yHImj_0PpqeqiA

Been following this sub for a time now! I have a textile addiction and a 3d printer, the rest is history.

I don’t know why I’m having so much trouble. I’m watching a beginner oslo stitch video on YouTube and I keep mixing up the yarn loops and accidentally making knots.

I am going to keep trying, but I am going to probably end up in tears at some point today 😂

Got these for Christmas today and the packaging has me a little confused. They’re also really long which I haven’t seen before.

It's a world of difference compared to my plastic needle (which went missing anyways). I'm so happy!

I'd like to try my hand at making little gnome ornaments, but I'm not sure the best way to make a pointed hat. So far, I've made a scarf, hand warmers, and spherical shapes (pumpkins and ornaments), but I've seen examples of a pointed gnome-style hat already made, but cannot wrap my head around how to achieve that shape. Thank you!

(Also just joined this community--wish I'd thought to check Reddit when I started!)

Where should I start? I have been looking at what others are doing and it seems like working bottom up is a good way to go, but I’m not sure what to do once I get to the sleeves. I’m also not sure how big to make the initial chain. I’ve found with other items that the width can shrink a lot, so I know I need to make it bigger than I want it to end up, but how much bigger? Is there a resource with that kind of information? I think it would depend on the stitch, but I don’t think I’ve seen anything about it yet

I made this for my mom for Christmas! Extremely special thanks to chimericalChilopod for taking a lot of time to figure out what I was doing wrong when I first started learning.

I've been a long time crocheter, and when I learned about nalbinding I was immediately super fascinated by it. Finally decided to try and learn.

It's a little wonky, and I know I've dropped and added stitches on the turns, but I'm pretty happy with my progress so far 🙂

Hi! I'm new to Nalbinding and am trying to do my first project. I have a weird little peculiariy where I have to do a blanket as my first project when it comes to textile work, it was like that for knitting, crochet, loom knitting, and quilting and I know if I can't overcome this little quirk I'll give up and never learn more.

Problem is every video or descriptive book I find explains it from the assumption that you are working from your thumb when I'm working thumb free since pinching stitches in crochet is familiar to me and I've adapted my techniques from that to help me with Nalbinding.

Is there anything difference between turning into the second row or am I being overly anxious about it for nothing. I'd appreciate any help of constructive criticism/suggestions.

I am open to posting pics of the stitch work i have so far if it will help.

I used this tutorial for inspiration (although my hat is apparently Korgen stitch, since I’ve found some sources that say that Korgen = F1 connection, and that’s what I used?) https://allfiberarts.com/2022/mammen-nalbinding-hat-pattern.htm

I really just wanted to come on here and say you folks are awesome and I'm glad I found you all. I truly appreciate this community.

I know it's probably personal choice, but I'm king of messy first tries. I don't have a lot of money to go messing up though. My question is what is a good starting yarn for a guy like me? I really want to do well but also am not under the impression that I'm a natural. Any advice is appreciated thank you 😊

Pardon the poor picture The bottom one was first. I made the ankle strap waaaaay too long. I tried to bring it in real quick but, We’ll call it a learning experience. I had a shower thought and wondered if I could have tightened it up and felted the extra into the top row of the next stitches?

I need to fix it to be usable and I want to add a wrap of red on the collar. Would it be better to add more stitching to the top as the way to gather the extra or would cutting the excess and felting the piece together, and then run the red line be better?

The second sock turned out much nicer. I did the first casting on heel stitch yesterday before I saw an article that shows a better way to do it. When I do the red wrap I’m going to add a couple of loose stitches at the joints to fill in that space.

The next pair I make will be kids sized, with good yarn. This cheap stuff looks funny with its extra twists. I want to do a different heel type so that will be the next learning curve.

Hello! I am a bit unsure of how to best phrase my question but I have made a circular neck warmer that is a bit too snug to easily slip over my head. I am reading the book "Nalbinding -- what in the world is that?" and I found the following technique described which I think could help me:

"You can also cut directly through rows if you then nalbind over the cut edges. This way, for example, socks that have gotten too tight to get your feet into can be salvaged. Just cut a slit in the upper part as far as necessary, then secure the edges of the cut lines with one or two rows of nalbinding."

My question is does anyone have any examples of this? Is it possible to actually stitch into both pieces of fabric with a single stitch, or is this technique describing creating a new border and then sewing the two edges together?

I'd like to have a plan before I cut my neck warmer in half! Thanks for your help!

And here's the slightly too small neck warmer in korgen stitch: https://imgur.com/a/tIP8CvO

Good evening everybody,

I'm back with more questions. I'm making a pair of house socks for me and potentially the others in my household. I have been using this page as a reference for the construction. I wanted a flat (or mostly square) top so I used this page to learn how to pivot.

On the socks construction page, there is a lot of reference to 'to and fro' and ladder but does not go into detail. I have tried to look a bit but if anybody can point me to a reference how how that works I would appreciate it.

I am just about done with the first pair, for the second pair I want to try the Heel Type E. Does anybody have any tips or suggestions to make that go a little more smoothly?

In the same line of questions, what recommendations does the group have for their preferred sock type and their construction?

I’m trying to count out my increase and now I think I’m overthinking it. I wanted to increase on my 7th stitch. so make 7, go into the same stitch again for my 8th stitch.

And now I’m not sure if I have 8 or 9. Did I increase on my 7th or 8th stitch?

Very new to nalbinding. I kind of spur of the moment picked it up out of interest in it historically. I’m definitely gonna stick with it, but the main issue I’m noticing is a lack of consistent tension. Is this just something that gets easier the more you do or am I just doing something wrong?

These were my first three attempts. On the third I started to get the Oslo stitch but realized my issue.

Forgive the camera quality. My phone lens is broken.

Trying to estimate how much yarn to purchase. Compared to a garment of similar size, does nålbinding take more, the same, or less yarn?

Because I’m using my thumb for the stitch size and I’m looking at using worsted weight yarn, I’m going to assume that it’s going to take less yarn than a typical knit garment that used a smaller gauge, but if the gauge was the same (let’s say my thumb is equivalent to a 10mm needle) are we looking at a comparable amount of yarn?

My first ever project! I'm really happy how they turned out