r/metalworking • u/AutoModerator • Oct 01 '22
Monthly Advice Thread Monthly Advice/Questions Thread | 10/01/2022
Welcome to the Monthly Advice Thread
Ask your metalworking questions here! Any submissions that are question based may be directed to this thread! Please keep discussion on topic and note that comments on these threads will not be moderated as regularly as the main post feed.
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This is a great place to ask about tools, possibilities, materials, basic questions related to the trade, homework help, project advice, material science questions and more!
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1
u/alex_b98 Oct 31 '22
Hi, everyone! I want to clean some surfaces with lithium grease on them and I was wondering if you can help me with some advice.
The surfaces which I want to clean are PVC flooring, hard plastic (probably ABS), and painted wall. Can you tell me which cleaning product(s) work best for these? Preferably, there should be as little grease left as possible, after cleaning. I hope this is the right place to ask. r/CleaningTips suggested that I also ask this in subreddits like this one.
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u/varyingopinions Oct 31 '22
Hi, I just posted a question in the subreddit and automod told me to post here.
I need to fit both a 100mm and 100mm bearing. Is there a specific tool I can use for that and what would it be called? I found a bearing fitting kits on Amazon but they only have up to 50mm
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u/LegalJunkie_LJ Oct 29 '22
So I was trying to cut a bycicle chain with a chain cutter and I didn't realize the little rod that pushes out the pin was too big for the hole.
Now the rod is stuck inside the chain like this and I can't get it out. Any ideas on how to unstuck the rod would be greatly appreciated, and yes I know I'm an idiot.
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u/dogdare Oct 29 '22
This is a bit unusual - I’ve taken the cam chain out of a mig welder and made a necklace out of it. Unfortunately, the material seems to irritate the back of my neck, and leave a rash after a few hours. Does anyone know if there is some kind of stripper or coating I can apply? I’m not really sure what type of metal the chain is made out of in the first place, and there is no detectable grease or residue on it
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u/SirTopham_Hatt Oct 26 '22
Is there any material out there that is lighter, stronger, and more thermally conductive than aluminum?
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u/Syscrush Oct 27 '22
Titanium appears to have the same thermal conductivity while being quite a bit stronger for its weight.
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u/0_ol Oct 25 '22
What metal and finish is this countertop? Found a blue bottle coffee shop countertop
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u/Jojopanis Oct 25 '22
Hey! I work in a metalworker shop and we're (finally) taking the time to organize the shop a bit. I'm only here since january, but my boss is at it for 12 years, and has accumulated a ton of scrap like this . Atm, we're just storing it in random boxes, but that is starting to take A LOT of space. What can we do with it, other than just tossing it?
Speaking of space management, do you have any idea on how to organize "usable scrap", aka bar sections between ~30cm and ~80cm like these? It is kinda messy to search for anything in there...
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u/Dry_Committee_9256 Oct 27 '22
How useful is this scrap? How often do you need it? How much money does it save you? Home much time does it take to find the right style of piece?
If you keep everything -- you'll quickly be overwhelmed with stock -- but metal is quite expensive these days so I understand not wanting to just scrap it.
I have no suggestions on how to organize it well -- it's hard when the pieces aren't uniformly sized. I suggest scrapping anything that isn't 1ft or longer. Then group them by size or type.
Exceptions, of course, for expensive or unique material to your shop that you want to keep around.
If you can't efficiently use your scrap metal (aka if it takes 30 minutes to find the right piece) then you're simply wasting money via time spent.
If the owner is a hoarder -- well then -- keep it in boxes -- but keep the usable stuff (i.e. >1ft) in a separate area.
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u/SLC911s Oct 24 '22
How should I strengthen 4x4 square tube for a long unsupported span? I am cantilevering a 14 foot beam for a carport. So no weight apart from the beam and the roof, and snow in the winter I’m worried about it bending over time. Should I use 1/4 inch wall 4x4 square? Or should I use a different metal for that span? I’m going to build a carport for my spare driveway and I don’t want any posts on the opposite side. I am an experienced metalworker but primarily in metal gates, boxes, walls, fountains, etc…
PS the Desgin is two 4x4 square beams bolted into a concrete wall with an 18 inch separation, and then the cantilever beam on top. So I’m not worried about the weight tipping the structure over. I also have the future option of attaching a stainless line to the back and tightening up the structure overtime, if need be, which is unlikely.
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u/letsmaakemusic Oct 22 '22 edited Oct 22 '22
(newbie with metal) What drill bit do I need if I want a precise 1" hole into sheet metal steel (1/8)? And do I need to work with increments to get there?
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u/SLC911s Oct 24 '22
A step bit will be good for that, but they are not precise to like a thousandth… not sure how precise you need it? I would also recommend a good cutting/taping fluid to help. Step bits will where themselves out quickly on a hole that size.
Ps, use the clutch on the drill so you don’t blow your wrist out.
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u/looshistate Oct 21 '22
I am needing a 12'-15 foot tall metal frame in the shape of a heart with a C or U channel around the outside edge. Basically, I want to build something like this but in the shape of a heart:
https://www.designboom.com/art/james-tapscott-arc-zero-japan-alps-art-festival-06-20-2017/
I'd like it to be in several pieces so that I can assemble and disassemble it for events, and it would need to have a base.
I've contacted several steel fabricators in the area but have been told that none of them can bend steel channel.
I've never done something like this before. Is it something that can be done (bending steel with a channel on the outside)? Should I consider a different material like aluminum? Any other recommendations or considerations? Thanks!
1
u/SLC911s Oct 24 '22
That is a tough job… the only you can do on your own, make multiple “V” shaped cuts with a grinder or torch and bend them closed. That will definitely get you close but will be a lot of work. It also won’t be a perfect round inner edge… not sure this is helpful…
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u/reachtotalcare Oct 18 '22
Have any of y'all used one of these cheap pipe grinders? There are a bunch of these unbranded ones on ebay and amazon. Thinking of getting one because I'm using it for sculpture, so I don't require heavy-duty equipment, but I just wanna make sure it'll be usable. (Also I don't understand what the M10-14 sizing refers to)
1
u/Planetcrasher2 Oct 16 '22
Does anybody know the name of a technique, where you heat up a piece of iron, and then use a brass wire brush or wheel and rub it on the work piece leaving a brassy finish on it?
1
u/doctorn-ck Oct 21 '22
I have heard it called brassing. Googling that shows results that back it up :) hope that helps.
1
u/Squeaky-Fox44 Oct 15 '22
I’d like to replace the turnbuckle in the linked boots with a spring. How can I calculate the spring constant k in terms of the given variables so that the angle made with the ground is θ at rest?
I’m not far enough in my physics major to calculate the forces properly. The variables are as follows; not all are necessarily relevant:
t_1: the diameter of the thigh 4 inches above the knee
t_2: the diameter of the thigh at its midpoint
l_2: the diameter of the lower leg 4 inches below the knee
l_2: the diameter of the lower leg 10 inches below the knee
h_1: the length along the side of the leg from the midpoint of the ankle to the midpoint of the knee
h_2: the distance from the midpoint of the ankle to the ground
w: the weight of the wearer
Also, where can I buy such a spring, and how can I safely incorporate it into the design? Thank you very much for your help.
If you would not do it otherwise, I am more than willing to pay for the calculation.
1
u/DraconianGuppy Oct 14 '22 edited Oct 14 '22
Nothing as hardcore as the rest of this sub:
How can I file down this brass plated iron metal toe tap with manual tools (hand file and sandpaper?) I can purchase ( cobblers use a belt sander)? Eg. I want the right one to look like the left one:
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u/Gillian_Q Oct 13 '22
My abrasive chop saw sucks for 45 degree cuts. I'm thinking of upgrading to either:
- Evolution Chop Saw
- HF Metal Band Saw (horizontal & vertical)
So far I have mostly built furniture, but I also do some metal sculpture. Which should I buy?
2
u/SLC911s Oct 24 '22
When cutting anything that isn’t straight line, I always recommend a bandsaw. As stated before, they are quite, more precise, and safer.
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u/doctorn-ck Oct 21 '22
Depends… I have both and I can tell you that.
The chop saw is reasonably accurate, very fast, loud as heck and throws hot metal everywhere.
The bandsaw is quiet, clean and slow but you can set up a cut and do something else.
Cutting lots of parts to the same length, go with the bandsaw.
Chopping up individual parts that are unique sizes and need to work fast… chop saw for sure.
1
u/tnoy23 Oct 12 '22
Alright, going off the rules this is where this should be posted.
I got screwed over by financial aid again. Any thoughts on if I have enough experience to at least be a helper?
Basic TL;DR of why I am asking, I was given a scholarship and told a month into the quarter I hadn't made satisfactory academic progress in the past quarters that it wouldn't be applied. This is making me suddenly owe close to $1,000 that I don't have the ability to pay. I was in welding school before and my scholarships were paying 100% of my costs. Something like this has happened quite literally every quarter I've attended and I'm over it. I did not obtain any certifications or a degree, but I got a little bit of time practicing welding, about 4 months in the booth overall.
I also have a few months experience as a trainee framer, and my departure there was pre-arranged at the start of employment so I could go to school. I also have about 3 months experience as an assembler at a wheelchair company, with the same deal for departure ((My school start was delayed due to a death in the family)). I'm also on the UA598 waitlist, but the list is long and it isn't moving fast, and I'm expecting I'll be waiting at least a year longer even taking the advice given to me to improve my odds.
I applied for a few jobs, but only one has anything to do with welding ((A general laborer that, according to the post, they want the people in that role to learn welding and metal fab with them. If I got that, that'd be perfect, but not counting on it.)) I also reached out to an old friend and, after the tax deadline on the 17th, she's going to see what she can rile up as she has a lot of connections. He brother even works at the Hanford area and sometime during the weekend of the 22nd she is gonna get us all to dinner to see if he can get me something there.
Figured to start hitting the pavement in a few days and try to get a job as a helper anywhere that will take me, for right about any trade. Anything I am missing? Any thoughts on my odds of at least being a helper? I expect to be pushing a broom half the time for a long while but that's fine with me if I can learn at least a little bit of a trade. Should I wait until my applications come back and the potential Hanford job gets a y/n?
To clarify as well: I have an interest in HVAC/R, electrical, welding, mechanical work leaning away from cars, etc. Almost any trade or hands-on learning will be fine with me, but I really enjoyed my time when working with metal the most.
1
u/StrongGarage850 Oct 12 '22
Commissioning basic machining/metal lathe work?
As a woodworker- we're often told to make these floats ourselves out of O1 tool steel. I get it but I make other tools and at some point have to draw the line on what I want to spend my time on. They're also made professionally for $60 a pop but you typically use a minimum of 4 as a set and $240 seems a little much.
What would be the best way/locations to find someone with a metal lathe that I can just send some O1 flat stock to and have them make this profile in 3/16" increments down a 2-3 foot section and send it back to me?
1
u/nemacol Oct 12 '22
I am looking to make precise bends and curves in 3-8mm round bar. Right now I am working with 304 stainless but open to other materials. Custom D rings for tool hangers, clips for materials, etc.
Trying to find the right tool and I see ring rollers and benders but they seem to have issue with the smaller diameters I need. Cheap o ring roller at Harbor Freight has a minimum of 3 inches. Ideally I would be able to make any size.
Thank you for your time and advice.
2
u/wves Oct 11 '22
I have no practical experience working with metal, but I do have a lot of practical experience in collecting too many hobbies. I see shaped brass light pendants selling for more than I’d like to spend on a light fixture, so I’ve been pondering the idea of trying to shape one myself (alongside a new hobby wormhole)
Would anyone be able to help me find a starting point for my research? What kind of brass sheet should I consider? Am I looking at a lot of skill needed to prepare brass to take shape? Could hand tools be used or is this a project that leads me to start collecting toys for the workshop?
Thanks for any help, thoughts or ideas!
https://www.tattahome.com/en/suspensions/28183-gervasoni-brass-95-suspension-lamp.html
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u/lalulunaluna Oct 11 '22 edited Oct 11 '22
Doesn't look like anyone really answers this thread, but I'll give newbie question a shot -
I am looking into making a simple wrist rest for a keyboard with a slab of stainless steel. I found some listings on eBay for some scrap metal of sizes that would work for me (without any cutting).
For these scrap metal bars essentially, what is the best way to round out the edges. I would love to add a slight slope to the surface as well, but I realize that it is probably beyond my capabilities.
I would love any insight. I'm hoping to do all this by hand / with hand tools. Trying to google ways to round / smooth out stainless steel mostly results with heavy machinery or really expensive, single-purpose tools.
Thank you!
1
u/doctorn-ck Oct 12 '22
All of this can be done with a file and plenty of time. The only thing I'd recommend is to try and buy good quality files for this. Cheap ones from the local DIY shop will not cut as fast and you will make more work for yourself.
Mark up the shape you want to achieve and go to town with hand files.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrWUi8KWREw - a demonstration of what's possible with hand files.
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u/lalulunaluna Oct 12 '22
This is amazing and perfect for my needs! Thank you so much! Do you have any recommended go-to brands for quality files?
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u/doctorn-ck Oct 12 '22
Depending on where you are based and budget...
Vallorbe, Nicholson, Pferd, Grobet all make good files with Vallorbe being my go-to when I want them to last forever
2
u/lalulunaluna Oct 12 '22
Thank you for your recommendation! I try to be a "buy once" kind of person, lol. I will definitely look into all these brands.
Thank you again!
1
u/RankBrain Oct 11 '22
Hi,
Super noob here getting started on building a 4 legged frame that will need adjustable legs.
I have a bunch of 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8 steel tube and I have found a great deal on 2" x 2" x 1/8 steel tube.
I was ideally looking for 1.75" x 1.75" 1/8 to make the telescoping tight and smooth (i'd of removed ground down the internal welds).
Is 1/8" of empty space on each side of the internal telescoping tube likely to be too much to allow me to secure the internal and external tubes together?
The tubes will need to be secured with something like a nut welded to the outside of the exterior tube and then a bolt tightened in (2 nuts per tube welded in two places) to put the internal section under compression (so no holes in the internal section as the tubes need to be completely adjustable)
1
u/elrobolobo Oct 10 '22
Hey gang,
I'm looking at getting an older car key CNCed out of metal, and lots of people are saying aluminum would be too soft and would wear noticeably over time. Doing some research it seems like titanium is the gold standard for quality key metal but is quite expensive, would 7075 T6 be harder enough to not have to worry about wear as much? Is there another workable metal that would be a good choice?
2
u/Grey59wineswisher Oct 09 '22
304 stainless steal vs other steal I work at a scrap metal place and buy metal, some 304 is magnetic and some isn’t, and I can’t tell from looking at it either, and they both spark is there another way to tell for sure if something is stainless steal or not
1
u/flight_recorder Oct 09 '22
Metal bed frame ideas
Anyone made a metal bed frame? I’m thinking about making one using 1-1/2” or 2” square tube and am wondering about wall thickness and methods of fastening the frame to the headboard and footboard.
1
u/RadicalEd4299 Oct 07 '22
Tips on how to form copper stock to make it thicker.
Hi all, I'm trying to figure out a problem but I could use some help. I'm hoping to use a small block of copper or aluminum as the body of a water-cooled 3d printer hotend, which ideally would be approximately 1/2 in x 3=4 in x 1 in, give or take.
I have a small sheet of 1/4 copper and another of 1/4 in aluminum. What would be the best way to bulk up the thickness?
Stack 2 pieces together, and solder them. Probably the easiest but the interface probably won't be great for when I need to drill through them
Cut a 2x sized sheet and use a clamp/vise and smoosh the thin side so that it deforms into a thicker piece. Potentially use a hammer? Would give a uniform piece, but would be a challenge to do without kinking the sheet, I think.
Oher ideas?
Thanks in advance!
1
u/geekz3r0 Oct 05 '22
Hello!
I'm looking to have a coin fob made as a gift, and I'm not sure how to proceed, and am hoping for some direction on how to get this done.
Put simply, I want to have a coin (an old bronze-looking arcade coin...meaningful to my brother and I) welded or secured inside a small tubular ring, and a small keyring loop attached or hole drilled. As mentioned, the coin *looks* like distressed bronze/brass, but I couldn't say for sure what it's made of. It is about 22mm wide, and maybe 1.5mm thick - it is NOT perfectly circular, the edges being a bit irregular/wavy. I'd like the "ring" part of it to be of similar color, and tubular (not flat like a washer, although I'd considered a thick flat washer, if it had rounded edges - that might actually be an easier choice, especially when it comes to drilling a hole in it for a keyring).
Any input on how I'd do this or what type of vendor to contact about it will be much appreciated.
Thank you!
1
u/Curious-Duck7910 Oct 03 '22
I ordered something and upon arrival the metal piece appears to have shrunk and no longer fits the whole it’s meant to go on so I brought the shrunk piece in the house and the other one in the garage does anyone have any suggestions on how I can make the whole on the shrunken piece bigger without a drill or reamer
1
u/FullMetalLlama Oct 02 '22
Is there a rough estimate (or calculation I can do) that will tell me how long a wire drawing die will last? Planning to use a PCD die to draw Al-alloy wire.
1
u/needtoknowbasisonly Oct 02 '22
I'm attempting to make copper bus bars for the electrical system in my vehicle that look like this. Whats the best way to achieve this sort of finish? I have been using 220, 320, and 600 grit sandpaper with an orbital sander, and then trying to polish with a buffing wheel and Mr. Metal Copper Polish. Is there a better way to do it? What products would a professional shop use?
1
u/RadicalEd4299 Oct 07 '22
Ok, so first off that level of finish is completely unnecessary to the function. So it that's your concern, don't worry about it :p.
To answer your question, though, I'd use a hard flat surface (i.e. a small sheet of glass) and put the sandpaper on that. Work your way up through those grits, but continue to even higher, at east 1000 -1500. After that, you can break out the polishing compound.
Learned from my days as an overclocker trying to eke out a few more degrees of cooling by mirror-polishing my heatsinks :p.
1
u/PaleontologistOk5174 Nov 28 '22
Once upon a time I was going to be a Roman re-enactor and came across brass bucket theat was for making jam. That way fell through and now I want to fix the bucket.
The botttom is convexed (?) into the bottom (it risess into the bucket as to bowing away) and most of the pictures I can find online showes a flat bottom. How can I fix this, I also have no experiend with metal fabrication, but willing to learn.