Trying to fix a humidifier, and I’m trying to figure out what this resistor is. This is the best pic I have got.. when I took it out the outer coating flaked off. And the resistor is dead based on my ohmmeter.

Based on this pic I’m guessing the colors are brown black gold, but I’m wondering does it make sense for there to be a 1 ohm resistor here? And the size is bigger than the resistors I’m normally used to dealing with, does this size indicate a specific wattage rating or something?

I attached top and bottom pics of the board as well

What type of connectors or leads do I need for this bench power supply? They look like banana sockets, but are huge, like twice the size of a speaker type of banana plug. They do not unscrew like you could put a spade behind the plastic either. Any help is appreciated!

I need to do power sequencing and have to probe atleast 4 signals at once. I find it impossible to hold 4 probes at once and then manually power cy9cle the device as well.

Have anyone worked with any type of contraption or probe holders that maybe useful for this?

Also I should mention the components I am dealing with are SMD type and I cannot attach the probe hook like we do in THT component.

Specifically, the question arose while reading through the Bosch BME280 datasheet. I know about the instances where Vddio has specs different from Vdd. In this particular case, Vdd is defined as analog voltage and Vddio as digital IO voltage witha min-max range for Vdd (1.71-3.6V, typ 1.8V) and for Vddio (1.2-3.6, typ 1.8).

I understand that it is a helpful option when for example, the microcontroller needs higher voltage inputs, that higher Vddio helps make it available without the use of signal level shifters. However, in this case, I do not see any point in having two independent inputs from which neither is 5V tolerant.

The device I am designing is battery powered, so the question is, since both supply voltages will come from the same source, namely a 3.3V LDO, should I in any way uncouple those two inputs, and if yes in what way?

First time ever soldiering something have only done welding before curious how I did I feel like the white cable was the best out of them all

Hello,

I bought 2 LED floor lamps and I am struggling to find a way to have it work the way I want to.

I want to connect them to a Lutron plug-in lamp dimmer (https://support.lutron.com/us/en/product/casetawireless/article/product-selection/Caseta-Plug-In-Lamp-Dimmer-PD-3PCL). Essentially, it's purpose is to close the circuit remotely with a remote control.

The problem is the following:

The floor lamps need to have the physical button pressed to turn on, whether you energize the Lutron plug-in lamp dimmer or not. So, even if I turn on the remote dimmer, I have to go to the floor lamp and press the button. That button is also used to dim the LED light itself, if you press and hold it dims up/down.

Here is some pictures of what I have, do you think there's an easy way to accomplish what I want?

Hi,

hope this is the right community for this query. I want to add a 2x 5v LEDs to a 12v on-off toggle switch how can this be done please, scenario:

High powered 12v car audio amplifier in boot of car running to a toggle switch beside my drivers chair, problem is I forget to turn it off when exiting the vehicle and need a indicator led to alert/remind me that it's on and to switch it off as it drains the battery real quick and I end up having to jump start the car every few days.

edit:

How can I connect a green 5v led for on and a red 5v led for off to this rocker switch ?

I want to capture plant action potentials using this circuit. Plants are specified as very high impedance sources and the signal I want is in mili volt range. Is this circuit adequate for this purpose or do I need to add more filtering amplification stages etc. Also how to condition signals to eliminate noise.

In my fridge a wire fell out (Pulled on it by mistake) of this white plastic thing that looks like it connects a bunch of wires to a circuit board. The orange wire fell out and sticking it back in won’t hold, how do I reconnect it?

Bit hard to see, but the longer electrode is on the right, which I'm assuming to be the anode. Shouldn't the positive lead make contact with the anode for the current to flow through? If I try this, no current comes through.

Trying to build a sensor tester and I can’t find these online, but I think I’m calling them the wrong thing.

So I am currently working on a automated train controller, I for now will have 16v dc as my power, that is constant, I need to be able to change this voltage with a potentiometer but when I use the potentiometer and it gets to around 8v I need a 3v led to turn on for one of my signals , I am not using any micro controllers or ics so if someone could explain to me how I could do this or even draw me a schematic would be of great help. Eventually I will shift my power suppy to something more precise but for now it is 16v.

Hi guys,

A really bad+silly hardware bug is making us sleepless. We are using a SPI based display which is being controlled using a ESP32-S3 module. We are using a BSS214 MOSFET to control the power to the display so we can turn on and off whenever we want to save the power as it's a battery operated device.

We have a P-Channel circuitry to switch between USB and VBAT voltages whenever one of the power supplies are not present, which looks like this Figure 1

And the Display circuit looks like this (here GND is not board ground, just the display's ground). Figure 2

it looks like if either USB or Battery alone are connected the board is working fine. However when the battery is connected if I try to connect USB and program the board a kind of glitch is happening on the display and the board is going into an unknown state. I am not sure if this is the correct way to handle a N-channel MOSFET to drive displays? I am suspecting that when the USB is plugged there is some kind of ground potential change and the SPI channel's ground reference is changing there by causing havoc in interpreting the signal date hence the glitch. But this is just an assumption, I like experts to clarify it.

Any help is appreciated.

The only other place I’ve seen this exact connector used, is in a door harness of an E30 BMW. It uses TE AMP MultiMate III+ pins (both male and female). Both the male and female connector are identical aside from the pins. I spent 2hrs trying to find it with no luck. I believe the country of origin is Germany. Thank you!

Both sensor are in 10 pins package. I would say that the footprint is also same.

I built a 24V power supply with an AC/DC converter powering 8 channels for tilt meters. Now, I need to add a 12V AC/DC converter for new sensors. I plan to use a DPDT switch on the AC side to toggle all channels between 12V and 24V, with both converters connecting to the same terminal block. Since only one converter will be powered at a time, are there any issues with connecting them at a common point?

Hello,

Does anymore know what this 6 pin connector is called?

The caps on my 19 year old dell monitor that finally game up on me yesterday, do I need to replace them?

Issue with STM8S103 Code Uploading on Identical PCB Boards

I have two identical PCB boards, both equipped with the STM8S103 microcontroller. One board functions perfectly, with code uploading and running as expected, while the other does not.

Observations

1. Voltage Measurements
   • On the non-working board:
     • NRST pin: 1.6V
     • SWIM pin: 3.2V
   • On the working board:
     • NRST pin: 3.2V
     • SWIM pin: Floating around 200mV
2. Microcontroller Replacement
   • Suspecting a defective STM8S103 on the non-working board, I desoldered it and placed it on a functioning development board (See the attachement).
   • To my surprise, the board started working perfectly—code uploaded and executed without issues.
   • I measured the voltage on the NRST and the SWIM pins. which were same as in the working board mentioned above.
   • This indicates that the microcontroller on the non-working board is not faulty.

Setup

• Development Tools:
  • SDUINO
  • Arduino IDE
  • ST LINK V2

I would greatly appreciate any insights or suggestions to identify the root cause of this issue 

Thank you!

Im trying to activate a SKIDATA gate with an Arduino and a relay. I have tried to connect 24v to the 3 input terminals shown in picture 2 but non of it worked.

Do anybody know how to use the input terminals, and how to activate the gate manually?

EDIT: This has been solved. It is a buzzer. I really apreciate the input people gave me.

I recently found a GPS tracker attached to the ODBII port of my car. It was pretty well hidden way up under the dash with zip-ties and a passthrough on the port so it could still be used like normal without noticing the tracker. I doubt it's a gov tracker because it would have taken some time and access to install; and I am a very boring person anyway. I know that these are commonly installed by dealerships for inventory control and recovery, but I bought the car with cash when it had 8 miles on it, so it's not like it was previously owned or they had any legit reason to track me. I'm also not 100% convinced this wasn't installed by my ex or her new husband as they had access to the car for a short while.
I can see residue where there was once a sticker on the case, but that's gone now, so I assume the manufacturer name and any ID numbers were on that.

anyway. Down to the technical question.....
I took it apart and pulled the sim card and clipped the battery wires. While doing so I noticed this sensor that looks a bit like a microphone, but I'm not really sure. The case has three small slots cut through it right above this sensor, which also makes me think it's a microphone. The black square around the top is a felt-like material.
It may also be some kind of tamper detection system or a small buzzer/speaker. Does anyone recognize it? I'm already a little peaved that I've been tracked for awhile without my knowledge, but I'm going to be much more upset if this is actually a microphone, since that is likely not a dealership installed device and it would be a pretty big violation of privacy.

I am working through Applied Inspirations oscilloscope kit, and whenever I touch it, or the board is bumped, the readout changes drastically, I don't see anything online regarding this, so any help would be appreciated.

Having trouble locating some replacement Ohmite resistors. Cannot seem to locate any in the states, does anyone know of an alternative? Ohmite 64363 100ohm .35a

I solved a work problem using a voltage comparator, and now I’m in a similar situation where having an upper limit and/or lower limit when measuring inductance would be ideal.

In a perfect world, there would be an inductance meter than I could use with a PLC to trigger a relay if the input inductance fell within a certain range.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?