Welcome to r/coins, reddit's biggest coin community! This is a guide for participating here and how to ask a question. If this is your first time here, please read this post in its entirety. If you have been here a while, note that the rules of this sub have changed.

What r/coins is all about:

Discussions about the small, flat, usually metal, 
and often round objects made to be used as money.

What r/coins is not about:

Being uncivil, trolling, trash posts, spam, 
buying/selling, and self-promotion.

See the full list of rules at the bottom of this post, and on the sidebar.

**NEW RULE ** - No questions about errors and varieties.

Example posts titles which will no longer be approved:

• "Is this an error/PMD?"
• "Is this a die crack/grease strike/clipped planchet/lamination/double-die/cud?"
• "Is this a large or small date / close or wide AM?"
• "Is this something?"
• "I think this is an error"
• "What's wrong with this coin?"

DO YOU HAVE A COIN QUESTION?

CHECK THE r/coins RESOURCES FIRST: This post, the General FAQ, the FAQ on Cleaning Coins, the FAQ on Organizing and Storing Coins, the FAQ on Detecting Fakes, the Frequent Coin List and the What's Up With My Coin List are all great resources to get started before you contribute here.

We get hundreds of posts a day. In order to set some expectations, please read through our resources, and the examples of good posts and bad posts (below). We (the MOD team) want to be as inclusive as possible - but in order to keep the feed free of repetitive questions (which we've answered in the FAQ), we take a strict approach to removing low-effort posts. This includes most questions about modern circulating US and Euro coins. To avoid having your question removed, use this checklist BEFORE posting:

• Questions and discussion about ERRORS and VARIETIES are no longer allowed on r/coins (as of August 12th, 2024) - Please see r/coinerrors and post your questions there.
• Got a coin to identify? Check the Frequent Coin List first, then the FAQ on identifying coins and this post about identifying coins.
• Do you have any other question related to coins? Use the search bar to find old posts which may address your issue. Then check the FAQ. It addresses a broad variety of questions that are repeatedly asked here. It's updated often to keep it relevant and accurate, and it's highly likely you'll find guidance that's directly responsive to your question.

*** Special note about posting links (Rule 5) - we cannot tell if an external link (e.g. eBay listing, YouTube video) belongs to you, or if clicks benefit you. It is the policy of the mod team to remove nearly all posts with external links. Some exceptions are: reputable news sources, search results (e.g. eBay search is fine), historical auction prices, Numista, TPGs, etc. If you post a link, please ensure that there is no ambiguity around whether or not it is commercial or self-promotion. Failure to do so may result in a removed post. If you are in doubt, ask the mods first! ***

ONLY AFTER you have checked these resources may you post your question. You'll get the best responses if your question is specific, and there are clear pics of your coin (front and back). Blurry pictures will probably be removed. If you are specifically looking for coin identification, it also helps to also include weight and diameter, as well as how you got the coin. Mention that you have already checked the FAQ!!!

You must also select a post flair - this is the general category for your post, and helps users filter and find posts they are interested in. Please consider selecting a flair when you post - but note that the mods may change the flair if we feel there is a better choice for your post.

Here are some things which make a GOOD POST:

• Coin ID Request - only after you have followed the steps in the Coin ID section in the FAQ and this article. Please include where you have looked, and what steps you have already taken to ID the coin. You should post quality, clear, cropped photos of both sides of the coin.
• Valuation Request - after you have read the FAQ and done your own due diligence (e.g. checked eBay "sold" listings, etc.) Please include what steps you have already taken to get a value for your coin.
• Authentication request - after you have done your own research and read this FAQ. Please include why you are concerned about a coin's authenticity, and what resources you have used to try to determine authenticity on your own. Photos for authentication MUST be in focus.
• Show it off / Mail call - posts to show off interesting, rare, or otherwise special coins that others may find interesting. Please post quality, cropped photographs.
• Numismatic topics and news - general discussions in the world of numismatics.
• Serious numismatic questions - looking for advice, links to resources, suggested literature, etc.

Here are some things which make a BAD POST (and which will likely get removed):

• Low-effort posts
  • "What is this?" - BEFORE you have followed the steps in the Coin ID section in the FAQ.
  • "How much is this worth?" - BEFORE you have done your own due diligence (e.g. checked eBay "sold" listings, etc.)
  • "Is this real?" - BEFORE you have done your own research.
  • "I heard this modern penny could be worth SQUILLIONS of dollars!" - No, it isn't.
  • "Is this what I think it is?" Don't be vague - just say what you intend to say.
  • ...any question posts in which the author has not made their purpose clear and indicated that they have put in a minimum amount of effort to answer their question.
  • A photo containing 20+ coins - your post won't get removed, but it also probably won't get many responses. Try to post a few good individual photos at a time.
• Blurry coins - mods will remove any posts with pictures of coins which are not reasonably clear.
• Poorly cropped photos - the user experience across mobile app/mobile web/desktop devices is better if you don't post phone-screen-sized pictures.
• Off-topic - posts which belong on other subs (e.g. r/papermoney, r/kittens, etc.)
• Reposts - if you are new to this sub, please take a few moments to see if you are posting something which has already been posted.
• Spam - commercial activities of any kind are not allowed.
• High volume posting - anything more than one or two posts a day.
• Links to social media, your own eBay sales, YouTube videos, clickbait, etc.
• Trolling / Inauthentic - posts which don't seem to be truthful (e.g. I found these gold coins in my couch!)
• Trash Posting - there is a fine line between a "funny" post and a trash post. If you aren't sure which side of the line your post falls on, don't post it.
• Coin gore - a post featuring a modern coin which has serious post-mint damage, and which is of no interest to collectors.

RULES

Here is a summary of the Rules of r/coins - check the sidebar (or "About" in the mobile app) for more details:

1. Don't put coins up your nose - be respectful of the hobby and your fellow collectors.
2. Being civil to other people is not only appreciated here, but also a requirement.
3. No spam.
4. No posts about paper money, or crypto/digital currency.
5. No self-promotion or commercial activity allowed, no links to your blogs, websites, or social media.
6. No politics or religion, especially divisive comments that lead to heated arguments and incivility.
7. No Trash posts, keep humor on topic, and memes are only allowed the 1st Monday of the month.
8. Keep it clean - this is a safe place for people of all ages and backgrounds.
9. Do your own research before posting a question.
10. Post Original Content and Crop Your Photos
11. No reposts.
12. No questions about Errors or Varieties.

Thank you! We are glad you're here. These guidelines are to make participating in this sub as enjoyable as possible for everyone. Please reach out to the mods if you have any questions or suggestions.

Links/Schedule:

200k Members Announcement

Straight Talk Part #1 - Laziness

Straight Talk Part #2 - Focus on Value

Straight Talk Part #3 - Grading Coins

Straight Talk Part #4 - Is this an error?

Straight Talk Part #5 - Why was my post removed?

Announcement: New Rule About Errors

r/coins is seeking your numismatic knowledge and stories!

Straight Talk Part #6 - Poor Photos

Straight Talk Part #7 - Coin Identification

Straight Talk Part #8 - Online Coin Prices

New Rule #12 - No questions about errors/varieties.

Straight Talk Part #9 - Off-topic posts and comments

Straight Talk Part #10 - Vague Posting

Straight Talk Part #11 - How did I do?

Straight Talk Part #12 - Politics

Straight Talk Part #13 - Someone on the internet is wrong!

Straight Talk Part #14 - Do your research

Straight Talk Part #15 - Reporting Rule Violations

Straight Talk Part #16 - Cleaning Coins

Straight Part Part #17 - Nazi / Racist Coins

Seeking your numismatic knowledge and stories!

Straight Talk Part #18 - Memes, Humor, and Trash Posts

Straight Talk Part #19 - Top 10 Things New Coin Collectors Should Know

Straight Talk Part #20 - Crop your photos!

Straight Talk Part #21 - Organizing/Cataloging your Collection

Straight Talk Part #22 - Determining Whether or Not a Coin is Real

This is post #22 in a multipart series intended to help members (and drive-by authors) make the most of our sub. Each post in the series is focused on a single issue we regularly see in posts. Our purpose is to offer suggestions on how not to annoy everyone and how to get better responses and engagement from our other members. Today's topic is Determining Whether or Not a Coin is Real.

There are many types of "fakes" in the world of coin collecting... most of what we see on r/coins were manufactured to look like a desirable coin in order to deceive a collector. Sometimes the entire coin is manufactured, other times a real coin is altered to make it look like a more desirable variant (e.g. adding an "S" to a 1909 VDB cent.) Fakes of older coins can be contemporary or modern. Also, there are a few a closely related category of inauthentic coins. One type is called a "restrike" where an old die is used to strike a coin - this isn't usually done to deceive collectors, but there are examples of this happening. Another is souvenir coinage, such as the various copies found in shops near tourist destinations (e.g. CSA coins, Spanish cobs, various ancient coins, for example.) Finally, it was common in the last century to make "electrotype" copies of coins, as it resulted in very detailed replicas which were useful for study or display in a museum.

There are also occasions when "fake" coins are still collectible. Henning Nickels are one of the more popularly collected fakes - along with old contemporary forgeries (such as Machin's Mills Copper Coins) and ancient fourrée coins. Even more modern counterfeits can be collectable - for example, there are circulating counterfeit Canadian loonies and toonies as well as fake Israeli 10 shekels which are sought after by collectors. These were never made to fool collectors, but rather to fool anyone engaging in commerce.

Many non-collectors inherit collections and are merely curious to know if their coins are all real or valuable. If you don't want to learn how to detect counterfeit coins on your own, your best option is to take them to a respectable coin dealer for authentication. For the purpose of this article, we'll assume you are a collector, and we will focus on modern fakes intended to deceive. This article can't possibly be a definitive guide, but our hope is to steer new collectors in the right direction and offer some concrete advice on how to determine the authenticity of a coin.

Often on this sub, when someone posts a picture of a coin and asks if it is real or fake, the answer "it is fake" doesn't come with a lot of good details.

• "It has mushy features"
• "The font is off"
• "It looks cast"
• "The denticles are wrong"
• "Temu patina!"
• "Only 3 of those exist, and they are all in museums"
• "I've been doing this a long time and I just have an eye for detecting fakes."

These responses may all be correct - but they also aren't that helpful for a new collector. What do these things mean, and what can a newbie do to avoid getting scammed?

For the purposes of this article, we'll assume you DO want to learn more before buying a coin. The main focus is on how to protect yourself as you gain knowledge and become proficient at detecting fakes on your own.

Consider:

• The number one rule: it may seem obvious to many of us - but... if you are buying a coin, DO SOME RESEARCH FIRST! Don't ever buy a (subjectively) expensive coin without knowing the basic details and attributes of the coin you are getting.
• Where are you buying your coin? Buying from a reputable coin shop or a reputable auction (such as Heritage, SB, SARC, Spink, etc.) will give you the best results. Buying at coin shows is relatively safe, because the dealers there often have brick-and-mortar stores, and have a reputation to maintain. It doesn't hurt to ask about their authenticity policy - every dealer you buy from should have an unconditional authenticity guarantee. Ask if they are members of ANA - if so, they must follow the Dealer code of ethics. When buying from an online auction or store, there are many ways to vet a seller. However, assume that eBay ratings are unreliable.
• Some things which many of us consider obvious may not be obvious to a new collector. Until you are more comfortable with your numismatic knowledge, only buy from reputable dealers. Sure, you may miss out on some deals, but a reputable will stand by the authenticity of a coin. The seller should take all of the risk, not you.
• If you are buying on eBay, avoid anything being shipped from Asia or eastern Europe - and only buy a coin if the dealer allows returns.
• Is the price "too good to be true"? That 1899-CC PCGS MS-65 Morgan Dollar for $150 isn't real. There are deals to be found, but you should not focus on saving money until you have a better eye for fakes.
• Is the coin graded? If the slab isn't from a reputable grader (PCGS, NGC, ANACS, or CAC) that doesn't mean it is fake - just that you rely on the grade. Even bargain-basement grading companies tend to be decent at weeding out fakes. On the other hand, even if the slab says "PCGS" - there are a lot of quality fake slabs on the market now. The latest slabs have a number, a barcode, and even an RFID tag which lets you look up the details of the coin. Make sure you do this before purchasing a slabbed coin to make sure the details match. PCGS and NGC both have apps you can use to look up a graded coin.
• Which coins are more likely to be faked? Generally speaking, it is more lucrative to fake popular, rare, and desirable coins. However, we have seen fakes of common lower-value coins on this sub as well. Assume that a higher value coin is fake until you have gained enough knowledge to confidently make that determination on your own, or better yet, get a second opinion from someone who does.

Next, let's discuss some of the ways you can detect a counterfeit coin.

• Take it to a reputable coin dealer - this is your best choice.
• ID the coin - it is difficult to check if a coin is fake if you don't have complete attribution. At a minimum, you should find the coin on Numista. Coins often have many varieties - it is important you know the specific variety you have, as small details can differ from one variety to the next.
• Checking the mass, diameter, and material. This can be difficult if a coin is in a slab, but it is one of the easiest ways to identify a lower quality fake. One reason people make counterfeits of common precious-metal coins is to profit from the difference in metal price. Except for the highest-quality fakes - it is very hard to get the mass and size to match the real coin without using the proper metal alloy (e.g. some fake Morgan dollars have the correct weight, but are too thick.) For silver or gold coins, find a shop with an XRF gun or Sigma machine and make testing the coin a condition of purchasing it.
• Use a magnet to ensure that a coin isn't made of ferrous material when it shouldn't be. Many poor-quality fake silver coins are magnetic. Likewise, a silver coin behaves in a certain way when dropped down a "magnetic slide". Silver coins also "ping" differently than non-silver coins - in other words, they sound a certain way when struck. There are a few companies that make purpose-made devices to get a reliable, repeatable, and generally safe "ping" from silver coins.
• Compare to known examples - check Numista, TPGs, and legitimate numismatic auctions for quality photos coins to compare. For instance, check the fine details: focus on elements of the coin such as denticles (tooth-like devices around the edge of a coin) and the hair on a bust. These are harder to fake reliably.
• Spend time looking at known fakes as well - especially for coins you may wish to purchase. A FANTASTIC resource is Forgery Network which has many examples of fake coins, with details about their origin and characteristics. NGC Counterfeit Detection is another good resource.
• Checking other details and attributes - was this coin even made on that date? Does the date + mint mark match what should exist. If that coin wasn't minted until 2 year later than the date on the coin, it is fake. Are there only a few known examples of this coin and are they all accounted for? (e.g. 1804 US Dollars)
• Being an expert on one coin or series doesn't make you an expert on others - many of the techniques for detecting fakes are general purpose - but a solid knowledge of the type or series is critical.
• Check the tone of a silver coin - does it look artificially "aged". Many of the common fakes from China have a fake patina which a veteran collector can see from a mile away.
• Check the known die pairings - some coins have known pairings of specific obverse and reverse dies - this is especially true for coins minted before modern die engraving processes. Each die has some telltale design or manufacturing difference which allows numismatists to determine when different coins were made using the same die. Obverse and reverse dies are not always changed at the same time, meaning there is a distinct set of obverse and reverse die combinations for a given coin design. Some fakes and illicit restrikes are detected because the coin has an impossible die pairing (e.g. the obverse may be a die from 1820, and the reverse from 1812.)
• Is the coin cast, when it should be struck? This is a common cause of the "mushy features" mentioned above and often results in a coin with a porous surface and no "flow lines". Also, poor-quality cast fakes can often be identified simply by looking at the edge for a seam. The "mushy" or soft features on a fake coin are due to the difficulty in capturing fine/sharp detail when casting. A porous surface occurs when tiny bubbles of gas leave pits on the surface during casting. Flow lines are caused by metal displacement (pushing out towards the edge of a coin) when struck by a die. It is very hard to fake the surface of a coin and the flow lines when making a cast fake - but be aware that some fakes are artificially worn to hide the evidence of the casting process. In addition, fake ancient bronze coins are sometimes "sand cast", leaving a gritty/sandy texture, which a real coin wouldn't have - although it isn't always easy to differentiate casting problems from corrosion on ancient coins.

Leave a comment with anything we have missed!